Typically, with a 30 to 40% concentration and at 40°F, the specific gravity of the fluid increases the brake horsepower. On pumps operating fewer than 10gpm, there is no correction for head, flow and horsepower.

A centrifugal pump is a variable torque device where the torque is reduced with the cube of the ratio of the reduction in speed. At a low RPM there would be virtually no load on the motor. The fan in the motor should be sufficient to cool the motor.

No, but all Taco pumps will lift water if you follow these steps:

1. Install a foot valve (check valve) at the end of a pipe submerged in a tank,
2. Fill the line and pump with the fluid to be pumped, and
3. Make sure the NPSH required of the pump is satisfied.

Yes. The glycol does not cause the seal to leak. The leak is caused by the excess treatments, and the presence of sodium silicate, which is abrasive to the seal faces. The suction pressure should be maintained so the glycol does not vaporize at the seal faces and leave deposits on the faces.

Some manufacturers have an invert duty motor; others have made their premium efficient motor to be used with variable speed drives. These motors are called Inverter Ready.

Not necessarily. A centrifugal pump is a variable torque device where the torque reduces with the cube of the ratio of the speed.
    Baldor has designed their Super E motor with special insulated wire that allows the windings to pass the Corona Inception Voltage test. These windings pass the requirements of NEMA MG 1 Part 31 for peak voltage (1600 volt peaks) when used on inverters. These motors are labeled Inverter Ready. NEMA Part 31, Definit –Purpose Inverter Motors, lists many requirements other than just peak voltage.
    A true Inverter Duty Motor meets all the requirements of Part 31 and is expected to perform satisfactorily for torque, temperature, noise and vibration over the entire speed range. This applies to constant torque applications. A pump is a variable torque application and only concerns us with the 1600 volt peaks produced by the VSD. The temperature, noise and vibration reduce as the motor slows and unloads. These will not be factors for pump applications.

We recommend a coupling that has its flexible element either bonded to the hubs or clamped securely to the hubs. The standard engaged flexible elements do not last as long, as they need to be loaded to their rating for best service.

Yes, the expansion tank is the point of no pressure change. If the pump is placed so that it pumps toward the expansion tank, the head produced by the pump will show up as a drop in pressure on the suction side of the pump. This drop in pressure is equal to the head produced by the pump.
    A pump that develops more than 12 feet of head should be piped so it pumps away from the expansion tank. This way, the head produced by the pump will show up as a rise in system pressure on the discharge of the pump. The positive pressure will improve the elimination of air problems in a system.
    The expansion tank and pump should be located after the boiler so the boiler is also at the point of no pressure change. The Pressure Reducing Valve (fill valve) should be connected next to the expansion tank.

A JP motor is a close coupled pump motor where the motor shaft is the pump shaft. It has a longer shaft so that the pump can be constructed with either a soft packed seal or a mechanical seal. A JM motor is also a close coupled pump motor, but the shaft is shorter and only allows the use of a mechanical seal in the pump assembly.

If pumps are piped in parallel, the flow produced by each pump will be additive, at the same head of each pump. For example, if one pump puts out 20GPM at 35 ft. and another puts out 30GPM at 35ft., the total flow at 35ft. head will be 50GPM.

If pumps are piped in series, their heads will be additive, at the same flow rate. For example, if one pump puts out 20ft at 15GPM and another puts out 25ft at 15GPM, the total head will be 45ft at 15GPM.

Not if it is a closed loop system and the fill pressure is set to equal the elevation + some extra. If the system is charged properly, the pump will need to overcome only the system resistance.
    In an open system, if the return line comes all the way back to the tank, the pump needs only enough head to fill all the piping. Once the piping is filled and the fluid is flowing back, the pump only has to take care of the system resistance and the gap between the top of the fluid in the tank and the end of the pipe.

All of the "00" pumps can be used on the supply side or the return. It is preferable to put a circulator on the output of a boiler, but the expansion tank should be between the boiler and the pump section. Most of our "00" iron pumps have a max water temperature of 230ºF. The max for the bronze is 220ºF. 160ºF is cold. No matter what the water temperature is, the motor housing will be hot. There will be no change in performance or life.

Yes, however, the performance will be reduced due to the reduction in speed caused by the change in frequency from 60 to 50 Hz.

No, but you can convert a current day model 008. Remove the casing from the new pump and install the new motor, cartridge, and o-ring to the –V2 casing and you will have a modern pump. The V2 pump had a special casing that combined an air scoop and pump, together with tappings for a pressure gage and a vent.

This is a 007 pump with an iron casing and a bronze cartridge. This is typical of all "00" series pumps.

No, the 007-F1 and 007–1 were not cartridge pumps. The replaceable cartridge pumps didn’t start until –2.

No, they have not been approved by UL for that application.

For small and medium size systems (3 & 4 zone), the 007 will do just fine. The 0010 should be used for systems up to 7 zones. These selections are good if proper pipe sizing is followed.

This was a cast iron, screwed connection, end suction pump.

Generally, with all of the "00" Series pumps, the first 3 digits tell the performance of the pump, something which does not normally change over the years. The F always means iron flanged. The BF always means bronze flanged. If we make a design change which does not affect interchangeability, we change the 2 to a 3 etc, on up. It is best to check with technical services to verify the performances.

Turn the dial clockwise until the hour and minute hand are approximately set and the exact time, in 15-minute intervals, is lined up with the pointer at the 2 o’clock position. To set the on/off times in 15-minute intervals, push the tripper levers away from the face for ON operation. Leave the tripper pointing toward the center for OFF operation. For automatic operation, the small, white button at the 4 o’clock position on the inner area of the dial should be in the middle of the slot. All the way UP is ON constant and all the way DOWN is OFF constant.

The gallons per minute (GPM) that a pump puts out are dependent on the head produced by the pump. The system resistance is the controlling factor in determining the flow produced by a pump. As the flow increases in a piping system, the resistance or pressure drop rises at the rate of the square of the ratio of the flows.

For example, if the resistance of the system is 2 ft. at 3 GPM, at (6 gpm/3 GPM)² x 2 ft.= 8 ft. Using this equation we can generate a system resistance curve and plot it on the pump curve. The point where the system resistance curve and the pump curve intersect is the maximum flow that the pump will produce in that piping system.

Here are some possibilities:

(A) Something is restricting the free movement of the seal.

The product is viscous and some products become more viscous with agitation (e.g., cream becomes butter with agitation). These products are called dilatants.

A recirculation line from the discharge of the pump is aimed at the seal and interfering with its movement.

A foreign object is in the stuffing box.

A protruding gasket is touching the movable part of the seal.

(B) The shaft is being displaced, causing the seal to hit something as it rotates, or causing the rotating face to run off the stationary face.

The pump is operating off of its best efficiency point (B.E.P.), causing the shaft to bend.

The rotating assembly is out of dynamic balance.

The shaft is bent.

There is misalignment between the motor and the pump.

Pipe Strain is twisting the pump stuffing box.

Heat causes expansion, leading to the possibility for rubbing or wear.

Cavitation, slip stick, harmonic vibration, bad bearings or some other form of vibration is causing excessive movement of the shaft.

The shaft sleeve is not concentric with the shaft, causing it to run “off center.”

The pump designed with sleeve or babbitted bearings and shaft movement is excessive.

(C) The seal face is being distorted by either temperature or pressure.

(D) The product is vaporizing between the seal faces, causing the faces to blow apart.

If boiler feed water vaporizes, it leaves behind all of the chemicals that were added to the water to prevent hardness, adjust PH, soften boiler scale, etc.

In cryogenic (cold) applications, the vaporizing fluid can freeze any lubricant that might have been placed on the seal faces. This frozen lubricant can damage the carbon/graphite seal face.

Your pump is a 008-V2 with viton o-rings. If you are now using water, you can buy a current day 008-F6. Unbolt the motor and cartridge assembly from the pump casing, throw the pump casing away and bolt the motor and cartridge to the old casing. If you are still using bray oil, you will need a viton o-ring for the casing, but you would still purchase a 008-F6. It is 1/25 HP.

The best way to update your pump is to buy a 008-F6 and follow these steps:

1. Unbolt your old motor and cartridge from the old casing and save the bolts.
2. Remove the pump casing from the new pump and transfer the new o-ring to the old casing.
3. Install the new motor and cartridge to the old casing using the old bolts. (You will need to get some nuts for the bolts.)

You will then have an updated product. Keep the 008-F6 in mind if you ever need parts.

The 006-B2 does not make the hot water. It is used to recirculate the hot water around the house, but the water must be hot in the hot water heater. Open a hot water faucet and feel the pipe coming out of the hot water tank to see if it is hot. If it isn't, the heating element in your tank might have failed or the circuit breaker has tripped.

If the hot water heater is OK, you need to check the pump. Is there a timer on the pump or is it connected directly to run all the time? If there is a switch nearby, put the blade of a screwdriver to the casing and the handle to your ear. Turn off the pump and listen for a change in sound. Turn the switch on again and listen to a change in sound. If you hear the motor coast down and speed up, the pump motor is OK but the impeller might have dissolved. The hot domestic water in some areas has dissolved some impellers. We have changed over to a different plastic to solve this problem.

If the motor is cold, you either don't have any power to the circulator, or the motor windings are fried. If the motor is fried, you will have to buy a new circulator, but you will not have to solder the new pump into the line. Unbolt the four 5/16" hex screws holding the motor housing to the casing and transfer the new motor and cartridge to the new casing. Put the new o-ring into the old casing.

If the motor is hot, it's possible that the rotor is locked and you'll need a new cartridge. Either way, you'll have to take the pump apart to check the cartridge. The replacement cartridge part number is 007-045. I hope there are shut off valves before and after the circulator, otherwise you'll get wet. If the pump connects to the top of the cold water line, you can shut off the cold water supply and not have to drain anything. Don't open any hot water faucets and you can hold the water in the pipes. The latest 006 is a 006-B4.

If a 007-IFC is piped on the supply and pumping away from the expansion tank, the normal purging of a zone or of the system should purge the system. Remember to close the main return valve and purge before it.

If the 007-IFC is on the return, close the main return and place a purge valve between it and the pump so the zone water is purged through the pump. An IFC pump on the return can create a problem because air sometimes stays in the pump. Remember to open the main return valve after purging. The higher you raise the system pressure without lifting the relief valve, the better the purge. You can do this by manually opening the fill valve and opening the purge valve just as the pressure reaches 30 psi.

Sometimes, minerals and other particulates work their way into the cartridge bearings, making them tight and prone to seizure. Replacing the cartridge will eliminate this problem. The part Number is 005-020RP. The cartridge has a 3-year warranty.

It is very unusual for a circulator to fail, but there are 4 basic modes of failure:

1. Oxygen in the system oxides the rotor laminations. The corrosion build up acts like a brake and stalls the rotor of the pump.
2. A weakness in the motor winding.
3. A loose wire or connection that needs to be repaired.
4. If there are many minerals in the water, they plate out on the rotor and eventually stall it.

If the problem is a stalled rotor, Taco has a replacement cartridge. If the motor is bad, you'll need a new pump. If you drain your system and put in fresh water, or if you have a leak where new water is being added all the time, oxygen and minerals will be continually added to the system. Whatever the reason, it is unusual for a 00 pump to fail.

Only the bronze "00" models use Norel (black) impellers. Cast iron models use polypropylene (white) impellers.

If you are not using zone valves, you need either Flo-Checks or a circulator with an Internal Flow Check (IFC). This is required to prevent thermosyphoning, a condition in which lighter, hot water rises, and heavier, cool water sinks, causing a flow in the system.

The Taco D'MAND System would meet your needs. It is installed under the sink of the remote bathroom and is only started when you push a button. The pump in the D'Mand System pumps the water from the hot water line to the cold water line. It shuts off when a temperature sensor in the pump casing senses a 9 degree rise in temperature. There is a time delay which prevents the pump from starting again so the cold water line isn't heated. The D'Mand System only runs when required and you don't have to pipe a return line.

In order for the D'Mand System to work in a new construction, the piping would have to accommodate a recirculation line back to the hot water tank that is farthest away from the fixture. A remote switch would turn on the pump when you want hot water at the point of use. If no recirculation piping is installed, you would have to install the D'Mand System with the plumbing kit at the point of use, usually the faucet farthest away from the hot water tank. The instruction sheet and piping diagram on the D'Mand page of this website should be helpful.

The 1600 series is a resilient mount design, to help reduce vibration transmitted into the piping. Resilient mount motor is supported by a bracket. If you apply an upward force on the bracket, either by a hanger or a foot support on the floor, it is possible to distort the alignment, causing premature, uneven wear on the seal faces, and stress on the bearings. The piping should be rigid enough to support the overhung load of the motor, but be careful of torsional stress on the piping. To prevent that, you may have some type of foot support or hanger, without pulling on the motor, just adding some support.

NPSHA stands for Net Positive Suction Head Available. NPSHR stands for Net Positive Suction Head Required. It's basically checks and balances; you need to have enough available to satisfy the required.

The power factor for the 007 is between 0.95 and 1.0.

A recirculation pump is selected based on the total length of pipe, insulated or not insulated, and the total BTU loss. A good estimate is 30 BTU loss for insulated, and 60 BTU loss for non-insulated pipe. For example, 200 lineal feet of non-insulated pipe will have a loss of 12,000 BTU. Divide that number by 10,000 to get 1.2 GPM required.

If you are mating with a flat pipe pump flange, we recommend using just the square, cross-section o-rings in the groove of the pump flange. If you are using our shut-off flanges, use the o-ring and the flat gasket that comes with the flanges.

A Taco Variable Speed Circulator with integral flow check is a good candidate for injection pump applications. The integral flow check facilitates piping and saves money. Flow checks on the supply and return will minimize migration into the secondary loop. Even though the tees for the secondary loop are closely spaced together at the piping interface, the pressure drop is still not eliminated. Without some type of flow control valve, some hot water will migrate from the primary circuit into the secondary circuit while it's inactive. From a performance perspective, the advantage of using an injection pump with an IFC is the minimal pressure drop through the valve. Additionally, it only takes approximately 1/4 psi to open the valve, sufficient to prevent any hot water from flowing freely into the secondary circuit when the pump is idle.

The orientation of the pump should not affect the noise produced by the pump because it has thrust bearings on each end of the rotor. If the noise you hear in the system is the third octave of "A" on the music scale, then you have a vane frequency noise produced by the vanes of the pump. The only way to correct it is to cut every other vane back ¼". The pump is generating a frequency that is exciting a component in the system with the same natural frequency.

If you were going to use the pump for a 20 GPM application, I would use a 110 or a 0010. For most heating applications, a 007 puts out more head up to 13 GPM (130,000 BTU/Hr. boiler), at which point the pumps are equal. Most heating systems don't use more than 13 GPM, and if the system is piped properly and doesn't need much head, the 007 could pump farther out on its performance curve.

140 feet of baseboard x 600 BTU/Hr./FT = 84,000 BTU/Hr divided by 10,000 = 8.4 GPM. Since that flow rate is too high for ¾" copper, I suspect the zone is split in half, so 70 feet of baseboard is fed with 4.2 GPM and the other half the same. There would have been a 1" or 1¼" feed line supplying these 2 branches and the return of the 2 zones would come back to a 1" or 1¼" line. The 007 should work fine.

If any pump is put in series with another pump, the heads are additive at the same flow. To increase the flow, the pumps have to be put in parallel. With pumps in parallel, the flows are additive at the same head. When pumps are put in series, install a nipple between 2 flanges. Bolt the discharge of one pump to one flange, and the suction of the other pump to the other flange.

There is no single pump that could efficiently meet your requirements. As an alternative, use two 0011 and two 0013 + 007 in series. When pumps are in series, the heads are added at the same flow rate. Be sure to install a nipple to 2 pump flanges to connect the 2 pumps in series. This will prevent the bolts from popping out.

Assuming you have a 30x40 home and all walls are covered with baseboard, you would have about 140 ft. of baseboard. At 600 BTU/Hr./Ft. x 140 ft. = 84000 BTU/Hr. The GPM required at 20 differential temperature would be calculated by the formula: BTU load = 500 x delta T x GPM. Solve for GPM. 500 x 20 = 10000. The load is 84000 divided by 10000 = 8.4 GPM. Split the loop in half and put 4.2 GPM down each side.

Since this is a water recirculating pump, minerals in the water exchange inside the pump and eventually bind the pump rotor. The pump is constructed so the rotating part of the pump, and not the whole pump, can be replaced if the rotor has bound up. The motor can stall and not burn up. The part number for the cartridge is 005-020R.

Hopefully, you have shut off valves on either side of the circulator. If not, you'll have to shut off the water to the hot water heater and drain the pressure from the line by opening a hot water faucet. Remove the four 5/16" hex screws that hold the motor to the pump casing. Once the motor is free from the pump housing, grab the impeller and see if it will turn. If it is bound, pull the cartridge from the motor and note that the cartridge passes through the plate into the motor. Grab the cartridge with one hand and the impeller with the other and try to free the impeller. If it's truly locked, it will slip on the shaft and you definitely need a new cartridge.

The reason I wanted to try and free up the impeller was to see if the motor was still good and if it would start the rotor/impeller. If you do free the cartridge, you will still need a new one in the near future, but you can test the motor by installing the cartridge in the motor and energizing it. If it starts, you are good to go. If it doesn't, grab the impeller and give it a spin. If it runs, turn off the power and then turn it back on again. If it starts by itself, the motor is good, but you still need a new cartridge.

When the decibel values differ by 0 or 1db, add 3db to the higher value. 2 or 3db, add 2 db to the higher. 4 to 8db, add 1db to the higher. 9db or more, add 0db to the higher.

Follow these steps to draw in a curve between 2 published pump curves with a known diameter:

1. Look at the pump curves of the pump in question. Note the diameter of each curve on each side of the diameter curve to be plotted. I.e., FI1511 needs a curve for 10.85" and we need to know the head that diameter will generate at 104 GPM. 11.25" & 10.50"
2. Subtract the difference between the diameters.
      11.25" - 10.50" = .750"
3. Subtract the smaller diameter from the to be drawn dia. Impeller.
       10.85" - 10.50" = .350"
4. With a scale of 50 graduations/inch, measure the distance between the known curves. You will need to do this in equal increments along the curve to plot point to draw the curve. I.e., at 50 GPM the distance is .310"
5. Calculate the new curve point by solving the following equation:
      .350"/.750" = X /.310", X = .350"/.750" X .310", X = .4666 X .310" = .145"
   
6. Measure up from the lower known curve (10.50" dia) and plot the point. Continue with the same procedure along the curve in equal increments.
7. Using a French curve, connect the plotted points to generate a smooth curve.

When selecting a pump for a drain down system, you know the elevation of the top of the solar collectors to the pump in the basement at the tank. We had originally designed a 009 pump for drain down system with a head of 34FT. Once the return line is full and coming back to the tank, the siphon effect takes over and you only need a pump that can overcome system resistance.

If you have shut off valves before and after the circulator, it would be a piece of cake. If not, you will have to drain off the excess pressure of the system after you have shut off the supply water, which is normally just before the pressure reducing valve.

1. Close off all the valves in the water piping around the boiler, including air vents. Turn off the power to the boiler and make sure no zone valves are open.
2. Open the drain in the boiler again to relieve any residual water. You now should be able to remove the four 5/16 hex head screws. Have a bucket beneath the pump as there will still be some water in the line. Once the water has stopped draining, you can remove the motor completely.
3. Pull the cartridge from the plate and motor. Insert the new cartridge through the plate and into the motor. The plate should come up under the flange of the cartridge.
4. Remove the old o-ring from the casing and install the new o-ring.
5. Pick up the motor and cartridge assembly and position it against the casing. Note that the flange of the cartridge should seal against the o-ring. Line up the bolt holes and install the screws.

Here comes the hard part if you don't have shut off valves at the pump:

6. Open the feed valve to the system. The pressure gage on the boiler should rise to 12PSI. If you have zone valves, open one valve manually.
7. Hook up a hose to the hose bib on the return line for that zone or on the main return header.
8. Using the fast fill lever on the pressure reducing valve, get the boiler pressure up to 28psi. When it reaches that point, open the hose bib on the return while keeping the fast fill open. If the pressure drops down to 15psi, close the hose bib until the pressure rises to 28, then open the hose bib again. Do this several times until the water comes out steady, with no air, from the hose. Release the fast fill and close the hose bib.
9. Close the first zone valve and go to the next and open it. Move the hose to the hose bib on this zone return (if there is one), or leave the hose on the hose bib on the return header. Repeat the purging process. Do this whole process to each zone.
10. When you are finished, close the zone valves, Pressure Reducing Valve on auto. Open all valves that were originally open, and all air vents. Turn on the power and you should be ready to fire up the system.

What temperature was the boiler operating at in the coldest part of the winter? You might need to turn up the temp to 200–220°F during that time of year, and then reset it to 180°F when the weather gets milder. Lower it to 160°F in the spring and fall. Another cause could be air blocks that were introduced when the boiler was changed, causing the flow to slow down. Try purging the system to eliminate the air block.

For every elbow, add 2½ feet of pipe in figuring the resistance of the system. Example: if you have 10 elbows of ¾" copper, add 25 feet to your total length of pipe for that loop.

You do not have a bad unit. The Aquastat depends on good heat transfer for the unit to operate properly. To improve the heat transfer, wrap some bare copper wire around the clip and between the clip and body of the Aquastat. The pipe and Aquastat should now be insulated. This should solve your accuracy problems.

There are 2 differences between the LM and 00-IFC circulators. 1) The LoadMatch circulator has a condensate baffle that prevents the build up of condensate on the motor windings when the circulator is used in a chilled water application and the 00-IFC circulator does not. 2) The LoadMatch circulator has a 200psi working pressure and the 00-IFC is rated for 125psi.

Yes, the 007-F3 replacement cartridge assembly part number is 007-042rp, and can be purchased through you local plumbing supply house. Alternatively, you can replace the entire pump with the current generation 007-F5. FYI, this is a direct replacement with the same dimensional and operational characteristics.

No, only on a DC motor.

Yes, these circulator do run hot and would probably burn your hand if you left it on the motor housing. The motor is cooled by the system fluid and the windings have high temperature insulation. The motor windings are now thermally protected

NO, the motor is internally wired to operate in the clockwise direction if you are looking at the inlet to the impeller.

NO, the control will only try to maintain a constant differential temperature as the temperature is the system rises.

When we speak of mounting, we are referring to the motor or motor shaft part of the pump. This motor part should be in a horizontal position (parallel with the floor), with the capacitor box on top or either side but never under the motor. You can mount the motor in a vertical position ( with the end of the motor facing up to the ceiling), as long as you have more than 20 psi in your system

This is a typical symptom of an air blockage in the volute of the pump. The system will need to be purged of this air or you can try burping the pump to get rid of this air blockage.