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Frequently Asked Questions
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Q.	How do I pipe the Taco three way (bypass) zone valve? The 560 series valves are designed to be installed down-stream of a fan coil unit. Follow these steps to pipe the valve: Connect the discharge of the fan-coil to the unit connection of the valve. Install a tee in the upstream side of the fan-coil supply line. Connect the branch connection of the tee to the bypass connection of the valve. Connect the main side of the valve to the return main of the system. When the valve is not energized, the system fluid flows through the bypass connection to the return main. When the valve is energized, it flows from the unit connection to the return main. The bypass connection is not a positive shut off when the valve is energized.
Q.	Can I use a current robbing thermostat with a Taco zone valve? Yes. However, the internal switch opens and closes the circuit when the valve is operating. In order to maintain a continuous circuit, a resistor will have to be installed across terminals #1 and #2 of the zone valve power head. The thermostat uses the power from the 24volt transformer through a continuous zone valve circuit to power the thermostat. If this doesn't happen, the program will be lost the first time the zone valve operates. Thermostat manufacturers are now supplying the required resistors in the package for use when a heat motor type Taco zone valve operator is used. This resistor is around 3000 ohms, 10 watts. Contact the thermostat manufacturer for the proper size.
Q.	Is there any power between terminals #2 and #3 of the zone valve operator? No. Terminals #2 and #3 are only connected to a micro switch and there is no power across them. They are called dry contacts.
Q.	What causes my thermostat to short cycle? Electro-mechanical thermostats have a small variable heater built into them. It tricks the thermostat into thinking that the room temperature is satisfied so the temperature doesn�t overshoot. The setting of the heat anticipator is based on the current draw of the connected zone valve wiring. A low current drawing valve requires a longer heater wire to create the same amount of heat. A high current draw circuit requires only a short heater wire. Taco zone valves of the 550, 560, and 570 series draw about 1 amp, so the heat anticipator should be set accordingly. If the thermostat is short cycling, increase the setting to a higher amp setting.
Q.	Why does the voltage read across terminals #1 & #2 vary between 24 & 28 volts? For the first 1� minutes, you will read 24 volts across terminals #1 and #2. The valve will have reached its operating stroke in that time. An internal switch will open the circuit to allow the heater to cool and control the length of stroke of the valve. When the circuit is opened, the load is taken off the transformer and the voltage jumps up to 28 volts. Once the valve gets into its cycle, there will be a current draw for 10 seconds and no current draw for 20 seconds.
Q.	Can I use the 570-2 series in an open system such as domestic water? No, the materials of construction are meant for a closed loop system in which the same water is circulated repeatedly through the system. Our 560-G2 and 5101-G2 are recommended for open systems.
Q.	Is the Taco zone valve a three wire zone valve and how do I wire it? The Taco Zone Valve is a 3 TERMINAL zone valve. Follow these steps to wire it: One terminal of a 24 volt, 40VA transformer is wired to one side of the thermostat. The other side of the thermostat is wired to terminal #1 of the zone valve operator. The #2 terminal of the zone valve operator goes back to the other terminal of the transformer. To activate the boiler control, run a wire from the #2 terminal to one of the T terminals of the boiler control. Run another wire from the #3 terminal of the zone valve to the other T or TV terminal of the boiler control.
Q.	Why does my zone valve let flow through it when it is not powered? There are a few possible causes: The 570 series can only hold back 50 feet of head. If a pump upstream of the valve produces more than 50 feet, the valve will be pushed open. If the manual lever has been pulled down, the valve will be manually opened. The zone valve is in an environmet which is causing the piston of the operator to stick, preventing the valve from closing.
Q.	I have an old Taco PANELTROL valve in my radiant heating system. Does Taco still make this product and are there any replacement parts for it? Taco no longer makes this product and we don�t have any replacement elements. The PANELTROL was designed to reduce the water temperature being supplied to a radiant panel loop. The reduction in water temperature allowed the radiant loop to operate at a lower temperature than the boiler, which might be needed for other higher temperature requirements. The return water from the radiant loop is used to temper the hot water. Taco does make a new tempering valve, the 5000 Series Valve, that could take its place. The PANELTROL had 1�� connections but our 5004-C1 should work.
Q.	What should the fill valve pressure setting be in my heating system and how do I calculate it? The fill pressure at the bottom of a system should be equal to the elevation + 5psi. For example, a 3-story house in which the distance between floors is 9 feet, the highest radiation or piping on the 3rd floor is 3 feet, and the fill valve is 5 feet below the 1st floor. In this case, the setting would be: 5 + 9 + 9 + 3 = 26 ft./2.31 = 11.3psi + 5psi = 16.3. The fill valve would be set to pressurize the system to 16.3psi. This would provide 5psi at the top of the system.
Q.	Why does my Flo-Chek leak by? Typically this is caused by debris accumulating on the disk or seat. This would be the case if the valve worked fine when it was first installed. You will have to take the valve apart and clean the seat, disk, and stem to bring the valve back to original. The stem should be vertical.
Q.	What is the purpose of the Flo-Chek? The Flo-Chek serves two purposes: It prevents flow from going in reverse direction from the arrow on the valve, and It prevents thermosiphoning when the pump is not running. Thermosiphoning is a condition in which water in a heating system rises when it is hot and sinks when it is cool. The home can be heated if the pump is not working by manually lifting the disk of the Flo-Chek. This can be done by screwing the stem counter clockwise, which will lift the stem and disk.
Q.	Why is my Flo-Chek or MPV noisy? Normally a check valve is noisy if the valve is oversized for the flow going through the valve. The flow cannot lift or swing the disk all the way open so the disk bangs back and forth within the body of the valve.
Q.	What is the formula for calculating the delta pressure for a given flow for each Accu-Flo? The chart on the submittal data sheet is the flow chart for measuring the flow. The actual pressure drop, with the balancing valve wide open, can be calculated by using the Cv or the slide rule. The formula would be (flow required/Cv) squared X 27.72 = resistance in inches of water at the flow required flow rate with the valve wide open. For resistance reading with the balancing valve throttled, you need the slide rule. Example: (106.8/212) squared X 27.72 = 7.03 inches of water resistance.
Q.	Why does my hot water circulate when my Taco pump is off? Something has adhered to the Flo-Chek seat or disk. The Flo-Chek is a weighted disk check valve that normally prevents thermosiphoning. That is, it prevents the lighter, hot water from rising to the radiation and the heavier, cool water from sinking, causing a flow in the system without a pump. If the system worked fine before and then started to act up, the disk is stuck or something is on the seats.
Q.	My home oil burner serves two zones that are served by 673-2 and 672-2 zone valves. The 672-2 only works by opening manually. It worked fine for years. How do I check and possibly repair the valve without replacement? The valves you have are 572-2 and 573-2 zone valves. There should be 3 terminals marked #1, #2 and #3. #1 and #2 should have 24 volts going to them when the thermostat is calling for heat. If you have 24 volts, the valve should open after 1� minutes. If you don't have 24 volts, the problem is with the wiring, the thermostat, or the transformer. If other zones are operating off the same transformer and working fine, the problem isn't with the transformer. If you have 24V at #1 and #2, then it is internal to the operator. Remove the wire from the #1 terminal and apply an ohm meter across terminals #1 and #2. The meter should read 22 ohms +/- 1 ohm. If the meter needle doesn't move or the digital reads 0.L, the circuit is open or the internal contact of the internal leaf switch is dirty. If you get an ohm reading of 16 to 22 ohms, the circuit is good but there might be a failure of the heat motor. With the #1 wire removed from the operator for 5 minutes, you can twist the operator and remove it from the valve body. The replacement power head part number is 555-050RP. You don't have to change the whole valve and the operator can be removed without taking the pressure off the system. When you remove the power head, if you see a dark brown wax around the piston, then the diaphragm in the heat motor has failed.
Q.	I have a 3-zone residential system with a 219 Flo-Chek on each zone. The manual override thumb screws are all open ~2 turns. Should these be fully closed? The bypass knob should be turned clockwise all the way for normal operation. For bypass mode, thurn the knob counterclockwise until you have reached the position desired.
Q.	May I have some information on balancing valve flow corrections for glycol solutions? These correction factors are applied to the differential reading which is taken with a differential pressure gage. The corrected reading is applied to the flow chart. If you have a formula that the differential is applied to, the correction is the square root of the difference in specific gravities of the flowing fluid, divided by the specific gravity of the standard fluid, water at 60�F. The viscosity does not affect the flow meter but can slow the flow due to the added resistance in the system.
Q.	My boiler currently has no zones and I want to set up 3 zones. I need instructions on how to change the plumbing and add the necessary controls. Connect a return header at the point where you break into the series loop. To make the next zone, connect a new zone supply to the disconnected piping. The point at which you break that zone will go to a return header. The final zone is made by connecting another supply to the disconnected pipe. The end of this zone could be the return header cutting in and installing Ts. How many feet of baseboard will there be in each zone? Under normal conditions, figure 600 BTU/Hr./ft. If you have 20 ft. of baseboard in one zone X 600 = 12,000 BTU/Hr. divided by 10,000 = 1.2 GPM required for that zone. If you zone with circulators, you will have to install FloCheks in each zone to prevent migration of the hot water in the zones. If you install zone valves, use the original pump and install zone valves in each supply line.
Q.	The installation in question has zoned hydronic heat, controlled with 3 Taco 571 zone valves and 3 Taco 568 thermostats. I need to replace one of the thermostats, but Taco no longer makes the 568. Are the newer thermostats with no heat anticipators compatible with Taco zone valves? The instructions with the 571 valve say that the thermostat heat anticipator must be set to 0.9A to match the valve rating. Will the valve function correctly without a heat anticipator in the zone? Taco still offers a thermostat #568-20. It may not look like your original, but it functions the same. Many people mistakenly think the 571 zone valve is a 3-wire zone valve because it has 3 terminals. All the Taco 500 series zone valves are 2-wire, 3-terminal zone valves. The heat anticipator has no bearing on the operation of the zone valve. Its purpose is to trick the thermostat into shutting off ahead of time, allowing the heat left in the piping system to dissipate into the room and not overshoot the temperature setting. The current draw of the circuit had to be matched to the heat anticipator so it would work properly. A lot of the new thermostats do not require a heat anticipator. All of the battery operated thermostats will work with the resistor and the units that require a third wire (C) to get power from the transformer. It is the digital units that either steal power, need the resistor, direct power, or battery. All the other conventional units work, but make sure they handle a current rating of 1 Amp.
Q.	I am having trouble keeping my zones at a temp of 72�F when the valve is in auto. Any suggestions? There are many reasons why your rooms are not reaching temperature. What is the outdoor temperature at the time the rooms would not heat? Were the zone valves open? You can check by pulling down on the manual lever. If there is no resistance, the valve is open. You should read 24V across terminals #1 and #2 if the zone valve is activated. If you have baseboard heat, the top louvers should be open. Was the circulator running? If it's a Taco 007, get a screwdriver and place the tip to the casing and the handle to your ear. Have someone turn the boiler switch on and off. Listen to hear the pump slow down and then speed up. The pump is so quiet, you would normally only hear a hum if it is running or not. Have you changed thermostats lately? The heat anticipator should be set for 1.0 Amps. Have you had anything changed in the system lately which would require draining the system, which might have caused an air block?
Q.	What is the best way to pipe a 5000 Mixing Valve when used for radiant heating? Pipe the system as primary /secondary with a pump circulating the primary loop and using 2 tees close together with the branch of the one Tee supplying the hot connection of the tempering valve and the return from the radiant loop supplying the cold connection of the valve and the branch of the other Tee. A pump, sized for the radiant loop or loops should be pumping the mixed port of the valve and supplying the radiant loop/s.
Q.	When I try to adjust my 5000-2 tempering valve to a low temperature the stem starts leaking. You have turned the stem down too low so back off (counter-clockwise) 2 turns to assure a good seal. This will be the lowest temperature you will be able to achieve and is also based on the cold water entering the tempering.
Q.	How to tell if your 500 series zone valve is good 1st you can take a voltage reading across terminal 1 & 2 of the zone valve head, to see if you have 24 volts from the transformer, to rule out a bad transformer. If you have the 24 volts, then you would disconnect either terminal 1 wire or terminal 2 wire from the zone valve. You then can take an Ohm reading across terminals 1 & 2. You should read between 20-23 ohms. If this checks out reconnect the wires, energize operator with operator on valve body. Wait 1 1/2 to 2 minutes for the valve to open and then pull down the manual lever. If the lever move freely all the way the valve is open. If it starts easy and then goes hard, the valve is not open. This indicate the operator is bad and needs replacing. Caution: Do Not Remove Operator From Valve When Energized!!
Q.	Wiring a WAGS to an Oil Burner Yes, the WAGS valve can be wired to an oil burner. All you have to do is strip the ends of the wire harness and put it between X and X (nomenclature can vary depending on make) on the oil burner. There is always a jumper installed there, so it needs to be removed. What you are actually doing is just interrupting the 24 VAC signal to the burner when the WAGS valve activates.
Q.	Wiring a WAGS to a Intermittent Gas Control Yes, the WAGS valve can be wired to an intermittent control valve, like the Honeywell 8600 series. All you have to do is strip the ends of the wire harness and put it in series with the 24 VAC signal coming from the external transformer to the control. What you are actually doing is just interrupting the 24 VAC signal to the burner when the WAGS valve activates.
Q.	Can the WAGS valve be used on water heaters that are not gas-fired? YES. The WAGS valve works with all styles of water heaters (natural gas, propane, oil, electric). If using a gas-fired water heater attach the included wiring harness. If using another style water heater the wiring harness can be discarded.
Q.	What happens if the valve gets splashed by the T&P valve or when I'm mopping the floor? The water soluble fiber element in the WAGS valve is encapsulated and protected from the accidental splashing of water on the valve. Water needs to enter the bottom of the valve through the slots and accumulate to a level of �" before the valve is activated.
Q.	What about high humidity environments? Will the element dissolve? NO. We have actively tested the valve in the most humid of conditions over a long period of time. The element will only absorb a certain amount of water due to humidity, but nowhere near the amount of water required to trigger the valve. An example of this would be if you had a cardboard box full of books. If you left the box in an extremely high humidity environment the cardboard would absorb a certain amount of moisture. It you tried to lift the box the books might drop through the bottom, but at no point will the box absorb so much humidity that it would disappear and leave only a pile of books.
Q.	Can I reuse the valve? No. This is a one time use devise only, there are no repairable parts. Once the tank fails and leaks it needs to be replaced, just like the valve.
Q.	Do I need a pan? Yes. You need some sort of water retention device that will reliable allow water to rise to a level of �" to activate the valve?
Q.	Why do you supply a dam and condensate drain tube with the valve? In some installations, code requires that no standing water (usually condensate) be present under the water heater. In those cases the condensate drain tube is placed under the dam so standing water can be diverted through the drain tube to a drain line. The dam is installed over the tube, so in the event of a failure the water would accumulate quicker then the flow through the tube and would be able to reach a level of 3/4" in the pan, triggering the valve.
Q.	How do I know that the valve has been activated? Three ways. 1) You don't have hot water. 2) The drip pan under the water heater if full of water. 3) There's a red pop-up tab on the WAGS valve.
Q.	If the WAGS valve works and shuts off my water supply to the tank will all the water in the tank still leak out? It depends if a vacuum breaker is installed in the system. It is possible that the remaining water in the tank could leak out, but that's a lot better then having a constant supply of water causing extensive flooding.
Q.	Does the WAGS valve need electricity to work? No. The valve is fully mechanical and requires no external power source.
Q.	Does the valve require any regular scheduled service? NO. Just make sure that the holes in the bottom of the valve that let the water in do not get blocked.
Q.	Does the valve make a good Christmas gift? Absolutely! Nothing says "I care about you" more then providing your Aunt Sally with the protection of a WAGS valve.
Q.	My water heater is 7 years old. Do I need to buy a new water heater or can I put this onto my existing water heater? The WAGS valve can be installed onto an existing or new water heater. All you need to do is put a pan under the heater so water can accumulate to a level of 3/4".
Q.	What else do I need to complete the installation other than the valve? - Water heater drip pan or other suitable device that will allow the water to rise to a level of 7/8”. See sizing chart below. - Two �” male threaded x sweat adapters - Two lengths of copper(or other approved tubing). Length will vary by installation. Connection from cold water supply line to valve and from valve to the “cold in” port of the water heater. - Two to four (depending on the installation) 90� copper (or other approved) elbows. Drip Pan Sizing: Water Heater Diameter Up to 17.75 = min. 20” pan 18” – 23” = minimum 24” pan 24.5” = minimum 26” pan


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