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Frequently Asked Questions
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Q.	I am instaling a hydronic system utilizing the Taco 006 pump. The loop configuration makes placing the pump on the supply rather than the return much easier. Can the BT6 004 bronze pump be used at the supply side with 160� water temperature without adversely affecting pump performance or useful life? All of the "00" pumps can be used on the supply side or the return. It is preferable to put a circulator on the output of a boiler, but the expansion tank should be between the boiler and the pump section. Most of our "00" iron pumps have a max water temperature of 230�F. The max for the bronze is 220�F. 160�F is cold. No matter what the water temperature is, the motor housing will be hot. There will be no change in performance or life.
Q.	Is there a replacement cartridge for the 007-F1 or 007-1? No, the 007-F1 and 007�1 were not cartridge pumps. The replaceable cartridge pumps didn�t start until �2.
Q.	What was the �1 pump? This was a cast iron, screwed connection, end suction pump.
Q.	I have a solar water heating system with a Taco 008-V2 circulator. Where can I get a replacement for the cartridge and motor? The best way to update your pump is to buy a 008-F6 and follow these steps: Unbolt your old motor and cartridge from the old casing and save the bolts. Remove the pump casing from the new pump and transfer the new o-ring to the old casing. Install the new motor and cartridge to the old casing using the old bolts. (You will need to get some nuts for the bolts.) You will then have an updated product. Keep the 008-F6 in mind if you ever need parts.
Q.	I have a 006-B4 in a solar hot water system. It's less than 2 years old, and the impeller keeps getting stuck. Sometimes, minerals and other particulates work their way into the cartridge bearings, making them tight and prone to seizure. Replacing the cartridge will eliminate this problem. The part Number is 005-020RP. The cartridge has a 3-year warranty.
Q.	I have had recurring failures of the Taco 007 Circulating Pump over the last several years. Any thoughts? It is very unusual for a circulator to fail, but there are 4 basic modes of failure: Oxygen in the system oxides the rotor laminations. The corrosion build up acts like a brake and stalls the rotor of the pump. A weakness in the motor winding. A loose wire or connection that needs to be repaired. If there are many minerals in the water, they plate out on the rotor and eventually stall it. If the problem is a stalled rotor, Taco has a replacement cartridge. If the motor is bad, you'll need a new pump. If you drain your system and put in fresh water, or if you have a leak where new water is being added all the time, oxygen and minerals will be continually added to the system. Whatever the reason, it is unusual for a 00 pump to fail.
Q.	My house has five zones, each with its own circulator. Hot water is passing into zones that are not calling for heat. Do I have some defective circulators? If you are not using zone valves, you need either Flo-Checks or a circulator with an Internal Flow Check (IFC). This is required to prevent thermosyphoning, a condition in which lighter, hot water rises, and heavier, cool water sinks, causing a flow in the system.
Q.	I want to install a hot water recirculation pump that could be conveniently turned on and off. The Taco D'MAND System would meet your needs. It is installed under the sink of the remote bathroom and is only started when you push a button. The pump in the D'Mand System pumps the water from the hot water line to the cold water line. It shuts off when a temperature sensor in the pump casing senses a 9 degree rise in temperature. There is a time delay which prevents the pump from starting again so the cold water line isn't heated. The D'Mand System only runs when required and you don't have to pipe a return line.
Q.	I read that the 008DM can be installed at the water heater on new construction projects. How does that work? In order for the D'Mand System to work in a new construction, the piping would have to accommodate a recirculation line back to the hot water tank that is farthest away from the fixture. A remote switch would turn on the pump when you want hot water at the point of use. If no recirculation piping is installed, you would have to install the D'Mand System with the plumbing kit at the point of use, usually the faucet farthest away from the hot water tank. The instruction sheet and piping diagram on the D'Mand page of this website should be helpful.
Q.	Under nominal steady-state pumping conditions, what is the power factor of the 007 circulator? The power factor for the 007 is between 0.95 and 1.0.
Q.	What procedure should be followed when selecting a cartridge circulator? A recirculation pump is selected based on the total length of pipe, insulated or not insulated, and the total BTU loss. A good estimate is 30 BTU loss for insulated, and 60 BTU loss for non-insulated pipe. For example, 200 lineal feet of non-insulated pipe will have a loss of 12,000 BTU. Divide that number by 10,000 to get 1.2 GPM required.
Q.	Do you have any data on putting two 009 in series or possibly combining the 009 in series with another circulator to boost head and flow rates? If any pump is put in series with another pump, the heads are additive at the same flow. To increase the flow, the pumps have to be put in parallel. With pumps in parallel, the flows are additive at the same head. When pumps are put in series, install a nipple between 2 flanges. Bolt the discharge of one pump to one flange, and the suction of the other pump to the other flange.
Q.	Can I, just a homeowner, install a 007-045rp myself? If you have shut off valves before and after the circulator, it would be a piece of cake. If not, you will have to drain off the excess pressure of the system after you have shut off the supply water, which is normally just before the pressure reducing valve. Close off all the valves in the water piping around the boiler, including air vents. Turn off the power to the boiler and make sure no zone valves are open. Open the drain in the boiler again to relieve any residual water. You now should be able to remove the four 5/16 hex head screws. Have a bucket beneath the pump as there will still be some water in the line. Once the water has stopped draining, you can remove the motor completely. Pull the cartridge from the plate and motor. Insert the new cartridge through the plate and into the motor. The plate should come up under the flange of the cartridge. Remove the old o-ring from the casing and install the new o-ring. Pick up the motor and cartridge assembly and position it against the casing. Note that the flange of the cartridge should seal against the o-ring. Line up the bolt holes and install the screws. Here comes the hard part if you don't have shut off valves at the pump: Open the feed valve to the system. The pressure gage on the boiler should rise to 12PSI. If you have zone valves, open one valve manually. Hook up a hose to the hose bib on the return line for that zone or on the main return header. Using the fast fill lever on the pressure reducing valve, get the boiler pressure up to 28psi. When it reaches that point, open the hose bib on the return while keeping the fast fill open. If the pressure drops down to 15psi, close the hose bib until the pressure rises to 28, then open the hose bib again. Do this several times until the water comes out steady, with no air, from the hose. Release the fast fill and close the hose bib. Close the first zone valve and go to the next and open it. Move the hose to the hose bib on this zone return (if there is one), or leave the hose on the hose bib on the return header. Repeat the purging process. Do this whole process to each zone. When you are finished, close the zone valves, Pressure Reducing Valve on auto. Open all valves that were originally open, and all air vents. Turn on the power and you should be ready to fire up the system.
Q.	My Aquastat does not turn on and off accurately. Do I have a bad unit? You do not have a bad unit. The Aquastat depends on good heat transfer for the unit to operate properly. To improve the heat transfer, wrap some bare copper wire around the clip and between the clip and body of the Aquastat. The pipe and Aquastat should now be insulated. This should solve your accuracy problems.
Q.	What is the difference between LoadMatch Circulators and "OO--IFC" series circulators? There are 2 differences between the LM and 00-IFC circulators. 1) The LoadMatch circulator has a condensate baffle that prevents the build up of condensate on the motor windings when the circulator is used in a chilled water application and the 00-IFC circulator does not. 2) The LoadMatch circulator has a 200psi working pressure and the 00-IFC is rated for 125psi.
Q.	Is this an interchangeable cartridge. My system has been in for a while now with no problems till now. Do they usually come apart easily or should I replace the entire pump housing? Yes, the 007-F3 replacement cartridge assembly part number is 007-042rp, and can be purchased through you local plumbing supply house. Alternatively, you can replace the entire pump with the current generation 007-F5. FYI, this is a direct replacement with the same dimensional and operational characteristics.
Q.	Our hydronic heating system includes a Taco cartridge circulator model 009-BFS. Can I use a rheostat to control the flow rate of that pump? No, only on a DC motor.
Q.	My 00 Series Circulator Motor housing is hot to the touch. Is it OK? Yes, these circulator do run hot and would probably burn your hand if you left it on the motor housing. The motor is cooled by the system fluid and the windings have high temperature insulation. The motor windings are now thermally protected
Q.	Can the 00 Series circulator operate in reverse if the lead wires are reversed? NO, the motor is internally wired to operate in the clockwise direction if you are looking at the inlet to the impeller.
Q.	If my RMB is set up in the Delta T mode can I control the temperature to a fixed temperature? NO, the control will only try to maintain a constant differential temperature as the temperature is the system rises.
Q.	How to correctly mount a "00" series circulator When we speak of mounting, we are referring to the motor or motor shaft part of the pump. This motor part should be in a horizontal position (parallel with the floor), with the capacitor box on top or either side but never under the motor. You can mount the motor in a vertical position ( with the end of the motor facing up to the ceiling), as long as you have more than 20 psi in your system
Q.	My "00" series circulator is on but I am not getting hot water This is a typical symptom of an air blockage in the volute of the pump. The system will need to be purged of this air or you can try burping the pump to get rid of this air blockage.


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