All of the "00" pumps can be used on the supply side or the return. It is preferable to put a circulator on the output of a boiler, but the expansion tank should be between the boiler and the pump section. Most of our "00" iron pumps have a max water temperature of 230ºF. The max for the bronze is 220ºF. 160ºF is cold. No matter what the water temperature is, the motor housing will be hot. There will be no change in performance or life.

Yes, however, the performance will be reduced due to the reduction in speed caused by the change in frequency from 60 to 50 Hz.

No, but you can convert a current day model 008. Remove the casing from the new pump and install the new motor, cartridge, and o-ring to the –V2 casing and you will have a modern pump. The V2 pump had a special casing that combined an air scoop and pump, together with tappings for a pressure gage and a vent.

This is a 007 pump with an iron casing and a bronze cartridge. This is typical of all "00" series pumps.

No, the 007-F1 and 007–1 were not cartridge pumps. The replaceable cartridge pumps didn’t start until –2.

No, they have not been approved by UL for that application.

For small and medium size systems (3 & 4 zone), the 007 will do just fine. The 0010 should be used for systems up to 7 zones. These selections are good if proper pipe sizing is followed.

Generally, with all of the "00" Series pumps, the first 3 digits tell the performance of the pump, something which does not normally change over the years. The F always means iron flanged. The BF always means bronze flanged. If we make a design change which does not affect interchangeability, we change the 2 to a 3 etc, on up. It is best to check with technical services to verify the performances.

The gallons per minute (GPM) that a pump puts out are dependent on the head produced by the pump. The system resistance is the controlling factor in determining the flow produced by a pump. As the flow increases in a piping system, the resistance or pressure drop rises at the rate of the square of the ratio of the flows.

For example, if the resistance of the system is 2 ft. at 3 GPM, at (6 gpm/3 GPM)² x 2 ft.= 8 ft. Using this equation we can generate a system resistance curve and plot it on the pump curve. The point where the system resistance curve and the pump curve intersect is the maximum flow that the pump will produce in that piping system.

Your pump is a 008-V2 with viton o-rings. If you are now using water, you can buy a current day 008-F6. Unbolt the motor and cartridge assembly from the pump casing, throw the pump casing away and bolt the motor and cartridge to the old casing. If you are still using bray oil, you will need a viton o-ring for the casing, but you would still purchase a 008-F6. It is 1/25 HP.

The 006-B2 does not make the hot water. It is used to recirculate the hot water around the house, but the water must be hot in the hot water heater. Open a hot water faucet and feel the pipe coming out of the hot water tank to see if it is hot. If it isn't, the heating element in your tank might have failed or the circuit breaker has tripped.

If the hot water heater is OK, you need to check the pump. Is there a timer on the pump or is it connected directly to run all the time? If there is a switch nearby, put the blade of a screwdriver to the casing and the handle to your ear. Turn off the pump and listen for a change in sound. Turn the switch on again and listen to a change in sound. If you hear the motor coast down and speed up, the pump motor is OK but the impeller might have dissolved. The hot domestic water in some areas has dissolved some impellers. We have changed over to a different plastic to solve this problem.

If the motor is cold, you either don't have any power to the circulator, or the motor windings are fried. If the motor is fried, you will have to buy a new circulator, but you will not have to solder the new pump into the line. Unbolt the four 5/16" hex screws holding the motor housing to the casing and transfer the new motor and cartridge to the new casing. Put the new o-ring into the old casing.

If the motor is hot, it's possible that the rotor is locked and you'll need a new cartridge. Either way, you'll have to take the pump apart to check the cartridge. The replacement cartridge part number is 007-045. I hope there are shut off valves before and after the circulator, otherwise you'll get wet. If the pump connects to the top of the cold water line, you can shut off the cold water supply and not have to drain anything. Don't open any hot water faucets and you can hold the water in the pipes. The latest 006 is a 006-B4.

Sometimes, minerals and other particulates work their way into the cartridge bearings, making them tight and prone to seizure. Replacing the cartridge will eliminate this problem. The part Number is 005-020RP. The cartridge has a 3-year warranty.

It is very unusual for a circulator to fail, but there are 4 basic modes of failure:

1. Oxygen in the system oxides the rotor laminations. The corrosion build up acts like a brake and stalls the rotor of the pump.
2. A weakness in the motor winding.
3. A loose wire or connection that needs to be repaired.
4. If there are many minerals in the water, they plate out on the rotor and eventually stall it.

If the problem is a stalled rotor, Taco has a replacement cartridge. If the motor is bad, you'll need a new pump. If you drain your system and put in fresh water, or if you have a leak where new water is being added all the time, oxygen and minerals will be continually added to the system. Whatever the reason, it is unusual for a 00 pump to fail.

Only the bronze "00" models use Norel (black) impellers. Cast iron models use polypropylene (white) impellers.

The power factor for the 007 is between 0.95 and 1.0.

If you are mating with a flat pipe pump flange, we recommend using just the square, cross-section o-rings in the groove of the pump flange. If you are using our shut-off flanges, use the o-ring and the flat gasket that comes with the flanges.

The orientation of the pump should not affect the noise produced by the pump because it has thrust bearings on each end of the rotor. If the noise you hear in the system is the third octave of "A" on the music scale, then you have a vane frequency noise produced by the vanes of the pump. The only way to correct it is to cut every other vane back ¼". The pump is generating a frequency that is exciting a component in the system with the same natural frequency.

If you were going to use the pump for a 20 GPM application, I would use a 110 or a 0010. For most heating applications, a 007 puts out more head up to 13 GPM (130,000 BTU/Hr. boiler), at which point the pumps are equal. Most heating systems don't use more than 13 GPM, and if the system is piped properly and doesn't need much head, the 007 could pump farther out on its performance curve.

140 feet of baseboard x 600 BTU/Hr./FT = 84,000 BTU/Hr divided by 10,000 = 8.4 GPM. Since that flow rate is too high for ¾" copper, I suspect the zone is split in half, so 70 feet of baseboard is fed with 4.2 GPM and the other half the same. There would have been a 1" or 1¼" feed line supplying these 2 branches and the return of the 2 zones would come back to a 1" or 1¼" line. The 007 should work fine.

If any pump is put in series with another pump, the heads are additive at the same flow. To increase the flow, the pumps have to be put in parallel. With pumps in parallel, the flows are additive at the same head. When pumps are put in series, install a nipple between 2 flanges. Bolt the discharge of one pump to one flange, and the suction of the other pump to the other flange.

Since this is a water recirculating pump, minerals in the water exchange inside the pump and eventually bind the pump rotor. The pump is constructed so the rotating part of the pump, and not the whole pump, can be replaced if the rotor has bound up. The motor can stall and not burn up. The part number for the cartridge is 005-020R.

Hopefully, you have shut off valves on either side of the circulator. If not, you'll have to shut off the water to the hot water heater and drain the pressure from the line by opening a hot water faucet. Remove the four 5/16" hex screws that hold the motor to the pump casing. Once the motor is free from the pump housing, grab the impeller and see if it will turn. If it is bound, pull the cartridge from the motor and note that the cartridge passes through the plate into the motor. Grab the cartridge with one hand and the impeller with the other and try to free the impeller. If it's truly locked, it will slip on the shaft and you definitely need a new cartridge.

The reason I wanted to try and free up the impeller was to see if the motor was still good and if it would start the rotor/impeller. If you do free the cartridge, you will still need a new one in the near future, but you can test the motor by installing the cartridge in the motor and energizing it. If it starts, you are good to go. If it doesn't, grab the impeller and give it a spin. If it runs, turn off the power and then turn it back on again. If it starts by itself, the motor is good, but you still need a new cartridge.

When selecting a pump for a drain down system, you know the elevation of the top of the solar collectors to the pump in the basement at the tank. We had originally designed a 009 pump for drain down system with a head of 34FT. Once the return line is full and coming back to the tank, the siphon effect takes over and you only need a pump that can overcome system resistance.

If you have shut off valves before and after the circulator, it would be a piece of cake. If not, you will have to drain off the excess pressure of the system after you have shut off the supply water, which is normally just before the pressure reducing valve.

1. Close off all the valves in the water piping around the boiler, including air vents. Turn off the power to the boiler and make sure no zone valves are open.
2. Open the drain in the boiler again to relieve any residual water. You now should be able to remove the four 5/16 hex head screws. Have a bucket beneath the pump as there will still be some water in the line. Once the water has stopped draining, you can remove the motor completely.
3. Pull the cartridge from the plate and motor. Insert the new cartridge through the plate and into the motor. The plate should come up under the flange of the cartridge.
4. Remove the old o-ring from the casing and install the new o-ring.
5. Pick up the motor and cartridge assembly and position it against the casing. Note that the flange of the cartridge should seal against the o-ring. Line up the bolt holes and install the screws.

Here comes the hard part if you don't have shut off valves at the pump:

6. Open the feed valve to the system. The pressure gage on the boiler should rise to 12PSI. If you have zone valves, open one valve manually.
7. Hook up a hose to the hose bib on the return line for that zone or on the main return header.
8. Using the fast fill lever on the pressure reducing valve, get the boiler pressure up to 28psi. When it reaches that point, open the hose bib on the return while keeping the fast fill open. If the pressure drops down to 15psi, close the hose bib until the pressure rises to 28, then open the hose bib again. Do this several times until the water comes out steady, with no air, from the hose. Release the fast fill and close the hose bib.
9. Close the first zone valve and go to the next and open it. Move the hose to the hose bib on this zone return (if there is one), or leave the hose on the hose bib on the return header. Repeat the purging process. Do this whole process to each zone.
10. When you are finished, close the zone valves, Pressure Reducing Valve on auto. Open all valves that were originally open, and all air vents. Turn on the power and you should be ready to fire up the system.

For every elbow, add 2½ feet of pipe in figuring the resistance of the system. Example: if you have 10 elbows of ¾" copper, add 25 feet to your total length of pipe for that loop.